Jon Waterman, a Carbondale writer and photographer, takes us on a beautiful and captivating excavation through the very complicated and layered challenges of the Arctic climate crisis in his latest book, Into the Thaw. Waterman, an insightful nature writer, seasoned outdoorsman, and former park service ranger, lets us tag along as he revisits memories and places along the Noatak River in Gates of the Arctic National Park in Alaska, the second largest national park in the US encompassing over 8.4 million acres. His sharp eye and persuasive expression help us experience first-hand how climate change is shifting the Arctic environment and its people.

Waterman begins the book with “An Arctic Primer,” giving the reader a condensed lesson in biology, geology and history that is over a billion years in the making. Waterman first laid eyes on the Noatak in 1983 while working for the park service in Denali. Along with a fellow ranger, he embarked on an exhilarating 45-mile paddling trip that lasted for seven days. This adventure allowed them to immerse themselves in the majestic wandering river and has left Waterman fascinated by its beauty and importance ever since.

In the summer of 1998, the author embarked on a solo adventure to the Arctic. This journey allowed him to gain a deeper appreciation for the land, water and native peoples he encountered. His experiences are beautifully written with a sense of wonder and awe. He shares his encounters with bears, wolves and the infamous mosquitoes, all while reflecting on his insights. With fortitude of strength I cannot even imagine, Waterman battles elements of the natural world to expand his knowledge and understanding. It’s clear that he has a deep love and respect for nature, and his passion shines through in every page.

After nearly 40 years since his first visit, Waterman once again travels back to the area. The author and a fellow adventurer set out on another trek along the Noatak. Their mission is to explore how the climate crisis has affected the vast tundra wilderness and the people who live there. Over 500 miles by boot and boat, they see firsthand how the delicate ecosystem is changing. This time around, he’s stunned to see how much the region has transformed.

A chance encounter with a pair of fish ecologists explains how climate change is messing with the salmon’s life cycles because of habitat loss, dams and development. Waterman and his traveling companion stay with friendly Inupiat people whose traditional subsistence way of life is in danger. Rising water levels are slowly encroaching into villages. The sea ice that used to cover the shorelines and protect the villages is almost gone. The caribou are scarce, and heavy rainfall has filled river edges with silt and mud. Wildfires are becoming a common occurrence, and the temperatures in the Arctic Circle have reached 90 degrees in the summertime. Beavers, which arrived roughly twenty years ago—it used to be too cold in this region for trees to grow—are contributing to thawing of the permafrost by damming streams which create ponds that retain heat. Melting permafrost creates thermokarsts—think of these as huge open wounds upon the land. Growing thermokarsts ebb away at the tundra which is vital to nearly all life in the Arctic. The challenges are formidable.

Into the Thaw is a summons to us to consider our part in the climate crisis and how we might be able to protect our fragile environment. It is also inspiring; despite the overwhelming odds of righting the global warming ship, Waterman brings us hope and encouragement not to give up. The book is filled with striking photographs mixed with bits of memoir and eloquent nature writing. A must read for any nature lover.